Amritsar to Brampton
A city that eats early
Amritsar takes its kulcha before nine, standing up, off a paper plate on somebody's bonnet. The recipe was learned in a lane off Katra Jaimal Singh from a man who never wrote any of it down and would not have known how to.
In 2009 it came to Steeles Avenue East, four thousand kilometres and one winter later. The address changed twice. The dough has not changed once.
Every lane in that city claims the best kulcha.
Half the number plates outside are from other cities.